TacomaNWTF.org

Turkey Beards Mounting

The photo self explains the design and it could be altered in a hundred ways to accommodate any interest the hunter might have. The number of beards the board will hold, the size and shape of the board, as well as the option to add a photo of the hunter in the field, could all be ideas to play with. One tip I have to anyone that wanted to take on such a project would be to leave several extra slots for future beards. This way your in good shape for another season or two with out having to build a second board. The one in the photo has an extra empty slot on each end for the addition of beards. I make the mounting boards from 3/4" oak (cabinet grade) plywood that comes in a 24" X 24" sheet available at any home improvement warehouse, along with a 3/4" X
6" X 24" piece of solid oak for the shelf and mantle. The project cost about $20.00 to complete. The beards are treated with dry preservative from a taxidermy supply , but Borax is great also. I attach them on the board with tacks or pins that also come from the same supply house. A heavy staple would work fine also. The shelf is then fastened on with two screws from the back side and can be removed for adding or changing beards. The pins or tacks allow for easy adjustments or removal of the beards in case the hunter ever decided to use the beards in another way. I never glue down anything of this nature since I'm always changing things around. Best wishes and I hope you decide to included this design in your text........Ga. Boy 

To prepare the beards: 

1. I am a puller when it comes to removing turkey beards. Grasp the beard firmly and give a sharp yank. The beard pops off and is ready for mounting. On multiple bearded birds you must cut the beards off. 

2. Pick up your empty shotshell (I never leave any trace in the woods for others to see, because where you kill one bird you will be able to take another.) 

3. Punch the primer out of the Shotshell with a Phillips screwdriver and insert a rawhide loop through the hole. You may have to experiment with the length to get it right. 

4. For twelve gauge shells take a 3/4 inch dowel rod and insert it into the shell and make a mark on the dowel rod at the end of the shell. Subtract 3/8 of an inch or so from the length and cut the dowel rod to the proper length. 

5. I use hot glue for the next step although there are epoxies and other things that would work. Place the hot melted glue into the end of the shell and insert the beard into the glue, holding it in place until the glue has cooled enough to hold the beard firmly. You can rotate the beard or the rawhide lace to get it turned correctly for hanging. 

6. I write in permanent maker on the shell the date, place and time the bird was taken. 

7. When I reach the end of my season I have a little hanging of the beards ceremony where I thank the good Lord for a successful season and His wonderful creation. 

For the spurs, I cut the leg bones off on each side of the spurs and cut away the scales/skin of the leg. I run a rawhide lace through the spurs and hang them to dry out. At the end of the season I use a dremel tool to smooth the bones down and buff the bone and spurs. I give the bone and spurs a heavy coat of clear nail polish and add them to the rest of my spurs. The really long ones go on my spur necklace. Spurs have to be over 1 1/8 inches to make the necklace. Shortly they will have to be over 1 1/4 inches. 

It is an eye-catching display and it has taken me 27 years of hunting to get the ones you see.